Our pilgrimage did not start well. Dan was feeling sick from exhaustion, I was unknowingly sans Visa card, and we’d left St. Jean way too late in the day. By 11am most pilgrims have been walking for five hours. The woman at the pilgrim office informed us that as young people we’d be taking the high road over the Pyrenees, in the sort of way that leaves one little room for protest. Besides, she said, only the first 8k was straight up and from there it really leveled off (not true). According to our excellent British guidebook, there were two routes across the mountains from St. Jean; the easier one followed the modern road over the Pass of Roncesvalles, the harder one a higher and more treacherous road used by Napoleon’s army, designed by the general himself to test the limits of his own cruelty.
On a good day, fit pilgrims can hike this first stage in eight hours, which, looking back, seems charitable, since it took us at least twelve and we passed countless pilgrims on the edge of asphyxiation. The first sign of trouble came almost immediately after leaving the village when an elderly Basque gentleman (in a traditional black beret) breezed by us on the road as if we were standing still. The higher we climbed, the more dense the fog became, and within an hour, our beautiful views disappeared in a thick soup of low-flying cloud. For six hours, Dan and I marched, soaked, through that shroud of mist, with only the sound of cow bells breaking the silence now and again. But it was worth it. When we finally crossed the border, we broke into sunlight at 3,500 ft. above the valley floor and stood looking out over a sea of white clouds.
Our destination was the medieval monastery of Roncesvalles, straight down from where we stood, a place where monks provided hospitality for pilgrims for over 800 years. Tucked away in a valley of the western wall of the mountains, Roncesvalles was, according to legend, the spot where Charlemagne’s general Roland was ambushed by the Moors. There aren’t any monks there today, just some friendly volunteers who usher the hundred some-odd pilgrims who turn up every day to their beds.
After a shower in which the water coming off me ran brown, a hearty fish dinner (heads on, naturally), and some pantomimed conversations with non-English speakers, I fell into a deep, dreamless sleep. Seemingly no time intervened between then and when I awoke—at 5:00am—to the sounds hasty packing. Typically, it was the Germans. There is a certain subset of pilgrim, comprised mostly of tall folk with wire-rimmed glasses, which wakes up when its dark to beat its fellows to the next pilgrim refugio to secure beds for the evening, while avoiding the heat of the sun. This might sound OK to a morning person, but its hardly fair to those who prefer to stay up past 7pm. I tried it for a few days and found the experience to be very overrated. Too much wine to be had, too many songs to sing, too many exotic people with interesting stories to meet. Within a week Dan and I were infamous for being the last people out of bed each morning, but this won us friends among the Spaniards, who make it a point to accomplish nothing before 10am.